Why should you learn how to iron a cotton dress shirt? For me, the only type of dress shirt worth buying is 100% cotton, long sleeve, with either a button down or spread collar. It can be white, oxford blue or in a variety of pastel colors. Above all, it must be pure cotton. 100% cotton has a look and feel that no polyester-blend shirt can fully mimic.
100% Cotton Shirts look and breathe better than blends, but are more difficult to iron
When properly tailored and ironed it looks appropriate at all times. Wear it with a suit and tie, or open-collar with a pair of khakis. What is more, it breathes. Because it breathes, you can roll up the sleeves during the summer and never break a sweat. It is an iconic symbol of timeless style at its best.
Why Are Cotton Dress Shirts Difficult To Iron?
But here’s the thing: Pure cotton shirts are difficult to iron properly if you don’t know what you’re doing. Unlike polyester-blend shirts that easily release wrinkles, it is not easy to get an all-cotton shirt to look as smooth and wrinkle-free as it did when first purchased. Cotton fabric requires higher heat and more steam to release wrinkles after laundering.
The easy solution is to have your cotton shirts professionally cleaned and pressed. The problem is that while they look great, the techniques used by professional cleaners shorten the life of the shirt. A quality cotton shirt is something I want to care well for. They’re not cheap! Plus, I enjoy the process of laundering and ironing my shirts. I dare say that after much trial and error I now have a process for laundering and ironing all-cotton shirts that results in a near-perfect wrinkle-free appearance, without the expense and shortened shirt lifespan of professional cleaning processes.
Step 1: Laundering Your All Cotton Shirts
Here is the first rule for keeping your all-cotton white shirts and bright pastels from fading or yellowing: Avoid using bleach, it weakens the cotton over time and can cause yellowing with overuse. Instead, add baking soda or hydrogen peroxide to your wash cycle. I add about a half cup or more to each load. Both of these products brighten white and light-colored fabrics without the damage and eventual yellowing of bleach. Also, always dry your all-cotton shirts on the warm (not hot) setting on your dryer. That will also prevent yellowing due to excess heat. Finally, leave the shirts very slightly damp if you plan to iron them right away. If you plan to iron at a later time it is better to fully dry them to prevent any mildew smell.
Step 2: Your Choice of Iron (Really) Matters!
A good quality steam iron is the secret to wrinkle-free all-cotton shirts. For years I struggled with a typical low-cost low-powered steam iron and wound up damaging my shirts in an effort to make them look as crisp as possible. The secret to quick, easy ironing of all-cotton shirts is lots of steam. Not starch… Steam baby, steam! And lots of it!
The secret to wrinkle-free cotton shirts is choosing the right steam iron for the job. All steam irons are not made equal!
How To Choose a Steam Iron
Generally, you want an iron that has a steam rating of 1500 watts or higher. This rating indicates how hot the steam iron will become. When shopping for an iron check if it lists the steam rating in the description. If the iron has a good steam rating the manufacturer will usually promote it. Generally, cheaper irons with a poor steam rating will not provide that rating at all in their advertising (I am located in the United States so these ratings may vary in irons marketed and sold in other countries). Always look for a steam rating, pass over any steam irons that do not make that rating available in the advertising or specifications. Here are a few steam iron models with a good steam rating that I have had good experience with:
The first iron that I ever purchased that made the ironing of all-cotton shirts a breeze was from Rowenta, a German brand of professional irons. It was a revelation seeing how easy it is to iron cotton shirts when you have the steam to do it right! Professional quality irons like Rowenta (another excellent brand is Shark) usually have a steam rating of 1600-1700 watts or higher. These irons generally cost $75 (US) and up. They deliver the large volume of steam needed to conquer cotton shirt wrinkles. Rowenta steam irons do command a premium price and are the first brand many professional tailors will recommend. However, there are other steam iron models that can deliver excellent results for a bit less money as well.
The best measurement of a steam irons ability to iron cotton shirts is the steam rating. Look for a steam rating of 1500 Watts or higher.
I discovered a moderately priced iron (the one I use presently) made by Black & Decker that also provides the volume of steam needed to flatten my cotton shirts. It is the Black & Decker Allure (D3030). This professional iron retails for around $40 and offers the same steam power as pricier models from Rowenta and Shark (1600 Watts steam rating). It’s an excellent bargain that can compete with steam irons three times its price.
Good Housekeeping rated the digital version of this iron (The Black & Decker D2030, selling for $45 on Amazon.com) as the best bargain steam iron in a recent review of 27 steam irons (including Rowenta and Shark steam irons). The only meaningful differences between the Black and Decker Allure D3030 and the D2030 are the digital temperature controls and display. If you can live without the digital gadgets, then buy the Black & Decker Allure (D3030). It has the same specs at a slightly better price.
Update: Steam Iron Reliability
Truthfully, steam irons do not last forever. No matter the brand, I have found that heavy duty steam irons tend to start having problems after about a year of heavy use. Nearly all of the steam irons I have owned start having problems with calcium deposits from hard water and discolored steam and sputtering after a year of ownership. So don’t expect them to last forever. The good news is that most steam irons have a warranty of two years or more, so hold on to that warranty card! If you spend less than $50.00 (US) for a 1500-1800 watt steam iron that lasts over a year than you’ve done pretty well. Just be sure to hold on to your warranty, you may need to use it!
After 8 months of ownership and many well-pressed shirts, my Black & Decker D3030 steam iron died. It suddenly stopped heating or making steam during a morning of ironing. Because it is still under a two-year warranty, Black & Decker is sending me a replacement unit (nice!). Until it died, I was very happy with the results whenever I used this steam iron, and look forward to my replacement. In the meantime, because I cannot appear unkempt and poorly-pressed for even one day, I purchased a new steam iron, the Shark Ultimate Professional. This is an 1800 watt heavy duty steam iron that I purchased for $48.00 at my local Walmart. Here are my first impressions after a couple of hours of ironing:
The Shark Ultimate Professional Steam Iron reminds me of my vintage Lincoln Town Car. It is big, heavy, and smooths out wrinkles like my old smooth-riding boulevard cruiser. Its weight and large ironing plate combined with 1800 watts of steam power make ironing my all-cotton shirts effortless. It does produce a bit more steam power than my Black & Decker D3030, (1800 watts vs 1600 watts). However, the difference is not drastic. Both steam irons do a great job of smoothing wrinkles in cotton fabric. Frankly, both the Black & Decker D3030 and the Shark Ultimate Professional models are very capable tools for ironing all-cotton dress shirts. I do like the fact that the Black & Decker model has a two-year warranty compared to one year for the Shark Ultimate.
It’s All About that Steam!
This is the secret to a well-pressed all-cotton shirt! Get an iron that delivers lots and lots of steam! It is the steam, not pressure or starch that will remove those stubborn wrinkles. A tiny bit of starch will give you a crisper finish, but the secret to a wrinkle-free cotton shirt is lots of steam! Look for a steam iron that offers 1500-1800 watts of power. Keep in mind that these are irons that you should not allow children to use. 1500 watts of steam can scald your skin pretty quickly if you’re careless. Now that you got the right steam iron, let’s move on to the next step in ironing a cotton dress shirt:
Step 3: Add Moisture
A cotton shirt should always be slightly damp when you iron it. The benefit of slight dampness it that it all turns into steam with just a couple of passes of your iron. Too much moisture will leave the shirt damp after ironing, robbing it of a crisp finish. Keep a spray bottle (that can deliver a fine mist) of water handy and give your shirts a light spritz. If you have a heavier cotton fabric, spray the entire shirt with a light spritz and wrap it in plastic for 15 minutes before ironing to allow the moisture to spread through the shirt and relax the fibers.
If you are using a good steam iron and the right technique, the need for spray starch will be minimal. I only use a light spray of starch on the cuffs, collar and front placket to give it extra crispness.
Spray Starch For Extra Crispness
I like a crisp starched look in my cotton shirts. I find that the Faultless Heavy Starch spray starch (purchased at Walmart, about $1.00 per can) has been the best way for me to get a good approximation of a ‘light starch’ finish from a professional dry cleaner. A light spray of canned spray starch combined with your iron’s steam and a slightly dampened shirt adds a crisp finish and body to your cotton shirt. You won’t be able to mimic ‘heavy starch’ from professional dry cleaners with any canned spray starch.
Step 4: Proper Ironing Technique
For this step, I defer to the masters. The video below provides a masterclass in ironing cotton shirts. Personally, I prefer to iron the sleeves before ironing the placket (front) of the shirt as demonstrated in this video. In this video, the demonstrator uses a professional steam generator iron with a separate water reservoir, the ‘Cadillac’ of steam irons. They are expensive but good for ironing lots of shirts without constantly replenishing water in your reservoir. If you’re just ironing five or six shirts a week the steam irons mentioned earlier in this article will do just fine.
Some final tips: The heel or widest part of the iron produces the greatest amount of heat and steam. It does the best job of flattening wrinkles. Also, make sure that you have a smooth, well-padded ironing board cover. If the ironing board cover is worn and wrinkled it will hinder your efforts to get a smooth finish as you iron shirts. They are quite easy and inexpensive to replace.